Friday, 28 February 2014

The Garden Route, South Africa

I have just finished a week travelling along the Garden Route from Durban to Cape Town.

The tour started early with breakfast at 6am at On the Beach Hotel, North Durban before the 10 of us piled onto out bus with our trusted driver/tour guide Coenie.  Our group was made up of 5 friends from Berlin in their late 60's who spoke very limited english, a family of 4 from Melbourne and me.        


Our first day was a big driving day covering about 700km, the majority of which was made up of small villages and farmlands predominately of Xhosa people.



One of the local villages we passed on our 700km day

After what seemed like hours we arrived at a town called Umtata which was the birthplace of Nelson Mandela.  We visited the Mandela museum, saw some of the areas he grew up in and then as we left the area drove past his family home where he is now buried.  Tourists are not aloud onto the property or aloud to stop out the front so we had to drive past super slow and take photos hanging out the windows.



The Family home and resting place of Nelson Mandela

After almost 10 hours of driving we arrived at the coastal town of Chintsa, our home for the next 2 nights.  We stayed at Buccaneers Beach Resort and Backpackers which was located on a lagoon right next to the beach with a very lush tropical feel.  I was lucky to get my own room for the whole trip (as the other single traveller requested a single supplement) and the room i got at Buccaneers was by far the best all trip.  I was given a private suite called 'Tutu' and had magnificent 270 ° views across the lagoon and beach.  Our first night together included a traditional Xhosa dinner of beans, rice, beef casserole and salad follow by ice-cream for dessert.  It was then onto the bar and being a Saturday night was quite busy.



The view from my room 'Tutu' at Buccaneers Beach Resort.

The following day i took a village tour with a local guide (and our barman from the previous night). It was so interesting to see how the local people live, they are a very self sufficient community growing foods, raising farm animals and tapping water from the local catchment.  All the children cam running to us when they saw us and the adults were very welcoming also.  The village has a few hundred people, 1 Catholic church and a primary school.



The local Xhosa Village.  The Xhosa people traditionally speak in clicks
which is impossible for foreigners to understand.


St Johns Catholic Church.  We were unable to go in as a service was taking place.


The village primary school for ages 5 to 12 years.

One of the local kids wanting us to play rugby with him.  Very cute!


One of the more Traditional style houses.

Before we knew it, it was Monday and time to head to Addo, home to Addo Elephant Park and apparently an abundance of wildlife.  On the way to Addo we stopped of in Grahamstown, the national university town for arts and culture.  It was another quaint little town with lots of old architecture and unless there is a big event taking place there is little to do other than visit a museum. I finally got to see some Zebra on the way also however they were off in the distance as we drove past so unable to get any photos.


Addo Elephant Park sounded promising to see Elephants, Lions, Hyena, Buffalo, Rhino and much more, unfortunately we arrived in heavy rain and lightning and I'm fairly sure all the animals went into hiding.  We did a huge bull Elephant right next to the gates as we entered, saw some antelope, judo, bush pigs, wild dogs, and abundance of bird life including ostrich and also cute little meercats.  Everyone that i have since spoken to were surprised we didn't see more elephants and are now saying that i am cursed.  That night we stayed at an orchard in Addo and experienced my first real South African sunsets



The gorgeous bull elephant we saw at the gates


A couple of Antelope


A wild pig


Amazing Sunsets at Avoca River Cabins, Addo.

The next day saw us back on the road and headed for yet another beachside town called Knysna.  Along the way we stopped at Tsitsikamma National Park where i finally got to go for a bit of a hike again, i crossed 3 suspensions bridges, the longest being 77 meters then hiked for about 45 mins up to a look out, it was a good walk and nice to be doing some exercise again after being on a bus for almost a week.  The national park was quite spectacular as it met the coast line where huge waves crashed against the rock causing the spray to go meters into the air.  In the right season you can see whales, dolphins and see otters here.  

Suspension Bridges at Tsitsikamma National Park.


The spectacular view from the lookout.

Next stop Bloukans Bridge, home to the highest bridge bungee jump in the world and trust me it was high.  The number of crazy people that jumped of that bridge was amazing.  There is no way on earth i would do it.  As it turned out none of our tour did the jump so we just watched the others groups for a while before jumping back on the bus and heading for Knysna.




Bloukrans Bridge, Highest Bridge Bungee in the World!

Knysna is another beautiful town set around a giant lagoon.  The majority of houses around the lagoon are holiday homes and as it is off season were all empty.  I decided to do a whale and dolphin boat safari, knowing it was the wrong time for whales i thought id have a decent chance of seeing dolphin - the curse repeated itself and there were no dolphins.  We did see a few fur seals so all was not wasted.  The rest of the day was spent at the beach and walking around town.  If i had to move to anywhere else in the world I would probably choose Knysna.



Knysna Town  - Main Street


Dolphin searching - Indian Ocean


A couple of fur seals lounging in the sun before heading off to catch some lunch


Not a bad beach to waste an afternoon on.
Our trip was coming to an end as we set off for our last night as a group in Hermanus.  Another big day of driving travelling some 420km with a few breaks to keep us sane and hydrated.  

We stopped at Cape Agulhas for lunch and could have stayed the whole day, the waters were pristine and scattered with manta rays that came right up to you, one of the local ladies was feeding them so they just stayed right up next to the beach, they were huge spanning over 1.5 meters in diameter.    

A little down the road (10km or so) we went to the most southern point of Africa where the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic Oceans meet, as you can imagine the seas were rough, the coast line rocky and apparently there are dozens of ship wreck out of the coast which make a scuba divers paradise.  There is a gigantic lighthouse there also however it was closed for renovations so we couldn't go in.


One of the giant Manta Rays


2 Places at one time - Where the Oceans Meet


Amazing coastlines 


The heavily replied upon Lighthouse 


We travelled further west to the the town of Hermanus, during whale season this is the perfect place to watch the whales and there can be up to 70 whales breeding at any given time in the bay. Again Hermanus is another seaside town, relying heavily on tourism and very much catering for the tourist with coastal paths, an abundance of restaurants and cafes and the locals all selling there trinkets and curios.  As this was out last night together we had a traditional Braii (BBQ) cooked by our driver/tour guide.  The food was delicious and the chicken tender, the only problem was it took hours to cook.



Hermanus - The Bay that the Whales like to breed in.


One of the Main Roads

Our last day together saw us head into cape Town with a little wine tasting at Spier on the way.  Spier is a massive winery and wouldn't look out of place in the Margaret River.  The wines were quite nice and could have easily bought a case if only i didn't have so many flights ahead of me.  Adjacent to the winery is a bird sanctuary housing many birds of prey and owls.  You can pat most of the birds and can even hold the Owls and giant black eagle.  About 60% of the birds at the sanctuary are nursed back to full health before being release back into the wild, those that won't make it in the wild go to zoos and animal parks where they can continue to get the care they need.






Spier Winery


Spier Tasting Room

With Woody the Owl.


Playing with a couple of Chameleons.


Mike the Black Eagle

Finally we made it to Cape Town where the tour ended.  I spent the after noon walking through the Green Point area, there was not enough time to do any big sights so will save them for when i am back in Cape Town in April.


Tomorrow i head back over to Durban where i will start my Photography Volunteer placement at Ulwezi - Thanda Game Reserve.


Stay tuned for more updates and hopefully more animal encounters.


Love to All xx

Friday, 21 February 2014

Back to the Big Cities

I finally feel like i am on a holiday......  After leaving Tanzania i had a 1 night stay at the Savaro Panafric Hotel, Nairobi, Kenya, it is a 5 star luxury hotel and upon my arrival was advised my Superior room was not available, but not to worry "we have offered you a complimentary upgrade to our Ndebele Suite".  The Suite was amazing (especially after sleeping in a tent for a week).  It had a huge lounge and dining area, separate bedroom with kingsize bed, 2 bathrooms and a balcony that wrapped around the whole room.  It was a shame i was only there for one night.

Ndebele Suite - Bedroom

Ndebele Suite - Lounge Room



Next stop Durban, a great beachside town with lots to see and do.  The main city centre has everything from the Indian Spice Markets, the Freedom of Rights mural, main stream shopping centres and a beach that stretches for miles.  The beach area was nice, there was so much to do, there were street markets, water slides, pools, jetty's and a number or cafes and restaurants.  It was easy to waste a day just walking around or relaxing in a cafe.  The whole city was ceased up for the 2010 World Cup and you can still see some specific structures still standing and showing the soccer theme.

View of Durban City from one of the Piers

Freedom and Rights Mural in Durban

One of the many beach market stalls

The rest of my time in Durban has been fairly relaxed.  I have basically spent my time on the beach or at one of the 2 shopping centres close by.  Laying on the beach in 30° heats has certainly been a great was to see the afternoons in watching the locals surf and kite surf.  

The Indian Ocean - Directly across from my Bedroom

Some of the locals
 .  

Tuesday, 18 February 2014

Surviving Kilimanjaro




A week ago i embarked on one of the biggest challenges of my life, to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, the largest free standing mountain in the world at 5895m above sea level.  Reaching the summit, Uhuru Peak, was probably the hardest physical and mental challenge i have been through.

The hike started in lush rain forest which quickly changed to sparse moorlands and before we knew it we were walking on rough rocks and shale - we kind of felt like we were walking on the moon as there was no vegetation and very minimal animal life.


I did the climb through G Adventures and the team of 40 (6 guides, 2 cooks and 32 porters) that we had were amazing, the guides stuck with us every step of the way, keeping up motivated and cheerful, the cooks provided tasty and nutritional meals, all cooked on gas stove tops (fires are banned in the National Park), and the porters carried everything up the mountain from our tents, sleeping mats and clothes to tables and chairs for us to eat at, it is truly amazing how these porters carry everything on their backs and balanced on their heads and yet manage to get up and down that mountain so much faster then us and stay so happy and cheerful always singing and dancing wen we arrived into camp each afternoon.  They were truly amazing and none of us would have made it up that mountain if it were not for all for crew members.


I was also very fortunate to have a great group of travellers of all different ages and nationalities, surprisingly i was the only Australian in my group of 12.  The group were fun, relaxed and there were no overpowering personalities which was good.  Everyone got along as through we had known each other for years which really helped especially on summit night when we had hiked for about 7 hrs, had only 2 hrs sleep before waking up at 11pm to start our midnight hike up to the summit which we reached around 9am.  We worked out that in 2 days we walked for about 16 hours on just 2 hours sleep.  Needless to say we were are exhausted and deliriously stupid by the time we reached the exit gates and made it back to our hotel.


It is difficult to describe what we experienced on the mountain, at times it was amazing, other times it was hell, the paths we took are indiscribable  as half of them didn't even look like paths.  We hiked through the heat, through cold winds, thunder, lightning and rain, we even encountered a blizzard on summit morning but every day got us closer and more excited to make the final climb.




Our camp on night 2, very cold and windy!


One of the many long and winding paths taken


One of the better loo's we encountered along the way.  Great views :-)


Having a bit of fun on the way!


Cold, Cold, Cold


FINALLY MADE IT  TO UHURU PEAK!!!!


The team that made it along with our guides!
There were glaciers all around the summit.


We often hiked through thick fog and dirt paths.
Almost back to the base of the mountain, spectacular views across the National Park.

Sunday, 9 February 2014

The Itinerary

I thought i would put up a general itinerary of my next 4 months for those who want to follow along.


7th Feb - Sydney to Johannesburg

8th Feb - Jo’burg to Kilimanjaro via Nairobi

9th Feb - 8 Day Kilimanjaro Climb with G Adventures with buffer days each side in Moshi

17th Feb – Night in Nairobi

18th Feb – Night in Jo’burg

19th Feb – Durban, South Africa.  Have a few days to explore the city

22nd Feb – 7 day Coast to Cape Town tour with Acacia Africa.  Staring in Durban we follow the South African coast to Cape Town with stops along the way including the Drakensburg Mountains, Aldo Elephant Park, Hermanus and into Cape town for some sight seeing and wine tasting.

2nd March – Back up to Durban to start the 4 week photography volunteer placement with African Impact at Thanda Game Reserve.  The first 3 days will be an intensive photography course with a local professional photographer.  I will then spend my mornings on game drives taking photos of the flora and fauna, editing the photos over lunch then off to do community projects in the afternoon.  I get my weekend off so will likely take a trip back to the Drakensburg Mountains for a 4 day hike and head over to St Lucia for the weekend to relax.

30th March – Back over to Cape Town for more wine tasting, exploring and a visit to the Table Mountains.

3rd April – 45 day Cape Town to Kenya with Intrepid visiting 8 countries including South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya.

18th May – back to Jo’burg to start my Live with Lion Cubs volunteer project through I to I where I will literally be living with, feeding, play with and bathing lion cubs with some interaction with the teenager and adult lions.

2nd June – Finish up with the lions and head to the Airport for my flight home that night.

3rd June - HOME